 Chef Angie Mar — former sous chef at the Spotted Pig — purchased the Beatrice Inn from legendary Vanity Fair editor-in-chief Graydon Carter in 2016. She brings a creative, meat-centric approach to the menu. The Beatrice Inn is located in the heart of the West Village in a tucked-away downstairs location. The first thing you’ll notice is the incredibly inviting and intimate bar, not to mention the scores of interesting (and good looking!) people that patronize the restaurant. This is all a prelude, however, to the main event: the food.
Seated in a banquette in the private room under an oil painting of a zebra, we knew we were in for a special meal. We started with a plate of oysters followed by a creative and delicious veal carpaccio featuring coffee, juniper, porcini, black anchovy, and marjoram. Mains included an exceptional 60-day aged cote de boeuf, served with marrow-blistered blackberries and charred prawn butter. We were also treated to braised oxtail and 90-day aged Porterhouse steak with black truffle butter. Wow. Sides included haricot verts with lamb tallow, hazelnuts, and tarragon, as well as a tartiflette with sautéed onions, sage, and d’affinois cheese. They were great pairings to the wonderful mains. One of the highlights was the dessert: a bone marrow crème brulee, which is as decadent as it sounds. The only thing that surpassed the food was the company of the Steakboyz, which always makes for a special evening. Since going to the Beatrice Inn, I have been back several times and tried a few items that I will note here. Try the rabbit: It’s the best I’ve ever had. If you are more deep-pocketed, splurge on the 75-day aged lavender-infused steak ($292). There is no way in my universe I can justify a $300 steak — but man, was it good. It has changed my whole opinion on aged beef, and I look forward to returning and trying more of Chef Angie Mar’s well-considered steaks. While the Beatrice Inn is not for the faint of heart ($$$), it deserves a visit, whether you are in need of meat inspiration, are dating a supermodel, or just want a special night out with friends. Steak 7.4 Sides 7.0 Value 3.8 Service 5.3 Ambiance 7.3 Overall 6.3 THE BEATRICE INN thebeatriceinn.com 285 W 12th St New York, NY 10014 212-675-2808
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