Gallaghers Steakhouse, circa 1927, bills itself as an "Iconic steakhouse offering classic cuts & raw bar items in renovated digs with red banquettes". The entrance of Gallaghers features an impressive array of USDA prime beef aging in a beautiful glass enclosed, humidity controlled locker. The aging room is striking and has its own large window on 52nd St. Sadly, this is perhaps the best part of the Gallaghers experience.
Gallaghers has a pre-digital age, old school Manhattan appeal; which is unfortunately not reserved for Uncle Tony or his "family", but rather, tourists mainly from Times Square. This fact doesn't do the ambience any favours. The service was a bit crude, and not in the classic semi-charming old school brusque manner in which the OG's like Luger's somehow manage to pull off. One diner was knocked in the head with a plate, with no apology...head trauma is probably a tipping point from brusque to just plain rude.
The "chilled medley of seafood" and bacon offerings were not memorable in a positive or negative way, average. As were the classic steakhouse sides, creamed spinach, potatoes and Brussel sprouts. The ribeye and porterhouse steaks were aged well, tender and clearly of high quality, but sadly under seasoned and inconsistent. Probably the cardinal sin of a steak lover, underutilizing a great product...a real missed opportunity.
The best part of the experience (after the meat locker porn) was probably the tab, Gallaghers didn't break the bank, which eased the pain. In the interest of being a well-rounded NYC SteakBoy, the classics must be sampled. Gallaghers will most likely be a one and done.
Merriam Webster defines iconic as “widely known and acknowledged especially for distinctive excellence". Unfortunately, this definition doesn't really capture the essence of Gallaghers. I think perhaps the Collins definition "having a fixed conventional style" is more appropriate...and a sad anachronism in 2017.
228 WEST 52ND STREET
NEW YORK, NY 10019